Nearshore oblique sand bars

Sheltering the Shore via Nearshore Oblique Seabed Bars

Periodic seabed undulations, such as nearshore sandbars, are known to reflect incoming surface waves of twice the wavelength by the so-called Bragg resonance mechanism. In view of this property, longshore seabed-mounted bars were proposed long ago as a means of coastal protection against the high momentum of incident oceanic waves. Many theoretical, computational, experimental and field measure...

Shore protection by oblique seabed bars

Shore protection by small seabed bars was once considered possible because seafloor undulations strongly reflect surface waves of twice the wavelength by the so-called Bragg resonance mechanism. The idea, however, proved “unreliable” when Yu & Mei (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 404, 2000, pp. 251-268) showed that a patch of longshore seabed bars adjacent to a reflective shore could result in larger wave...

Solute Dispersion in the Nearshore Due to Oblique Waves

Toward modeling turbulent suspension of sand in the nearshore

[1] We present two depthand phase-resolving models, based on singleand two-phase approaches for suspended sediment transport under water waves. Both models are the extension of a wave hydrodynamic model Cornell Breaking Wave and Structure (COBRAS). In the two-phase approach, dilute two-phase mass and momentum equations are calculated along with a fluid turbulence closure based on balance equati...

A method for quantifying bird colonies in sand bars via GPS.